BANJOMAKER
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"Those Who Never Try... Never Will !"

 

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Building the Mini Case

The case for the mini banjo adds both protection and curiosity to the banjo. There have been numerous times that I have been carrying my mini, that I call "The Vine", that I see people staring at it as I walk by. Most will stop me and ask, "What you got in that there case?" Many think that it contains a mandolin, but are surprised when they see the banjo!

The case is constructed from 1/2" wide ribs sawn out of wood that are glued up on top of each other to form the case sides. The top and bottom is made from 1/4" birch plywood. I start the case by drawing a pattern on a piece 3/4" thick aspen shelving board, bought from Lowes. The ribs are sawn out on a bandsaw. I first cut the outside of one rib, use it for a pattern to draw the remaining ribs and top and bottom, then cut the inside of the rib. To cut the inside, a cut is made ninety degrees across one of the flat sides where the neck will be, and the inside of the pattern is sawn out. A piece of 1/16" thick veneer is glued in the saw cut to fill in the gap left by the bandsaw blade. I cut the patterns for the remaining ribs for the case and repeat the glue process above. A total of six ribs are needed, four for the case bottom and two for the top.

The two ribs for the top of the case are glued to the 1/4" birch plywood, and the four other ribs are glued to the birch plywood bottom. When all is dry, the sides of the case are sanded true and square on a table disc sander. The outside curves (and the top inside edges) of the case are sanded with a drum sander mounted in a drill press. Supports for the banjo neck are sawn out of plywood and glued, in the right spots, inside the case.

If this is to be a black case, I round the top and bottom outside edges on a router table. The case is then spray painted with three or four coats of flat black paint. I then put on the final finish with spray-on automotive bed liner. It usually takes four coats. This gives the outside a tough, durable finish.

If  the case is to be veneered, I leave the top and bottom outside edges of the case square. I usually veneer the top and bottom with book matched curly maple, and the sides of the case with mahogany. I glue/clamp the veneer to the top and bottom with carpenters glue, before the side ribs are glued to them. The ribs are then glued to the top and bottom, sanded square, and the mahogany veneer is glued on with contact cement. The top and bottom outer edges of the case lid and body are routed for ivoroid binding. The binding is glued on with Duco Cement and held in place with tape until dry. The binding is scraped smooth, and the case is sanded. Stain is applied and covered with several coats of clear, either Dupont automotive clear or polyurathane.

I buy the leather case handle, but the handle brackets are hand made. A piece of chain link is sawed cross wise with a hacksaw, holes drilled in each end, and then tapped with 4-40 threads. I make the back plates for the brackets out of stainless steel. One is flat, but the other is curved to fit the case. I cut a form out of hard wood with an arc the same size as the outside shape of the rounded part of the case. I then put the stainless on top of the form and beat it into shape with a hammer. Holes are drilled in the back plates and screws are used to hold it together. When the handle is installed on the case, Longer screws that fit all the way through to the inside of the case are used. This assures that the handle brackets wont pull off the case!

 Black foam pipe insulation is used for padding inside the case. I cut the pieces needed to the right size, spray them with 3M 77 glue, and cover them with red crushed automotive upholstery material. These pieces are then glued inside the case with Liquid Nails adhesive. The hinges and draw bolts are installed on the case at this time. A safety chain is installed at the small end of the case to prevent the top from opening too far. Rubber bumper feet are screwed to the bottom, and to the back side of the case for protection. I saw my name logo "Walker" out of a piece of stainless steel, drill holes in it, and screw it to the outside of the case. A serial number plate is engraved and screwed to the inside of the case. The mini banjo case is complete!

 

Pictures of Building The Gerald Slaughter BLACK Mini Banjo Case- Click to enlarge

 

Pictures of Alternate Steps in Building a Veneered Mini Banjo Case- Click to enlarge

 

 

The Gerald Slaughter Mini Banjo and Case